Cardi-coat

In my efforts to reduce my fabric stash I decided to make a new coat using Silhouette Pattern #1819 which is really a jacket.  I decided not to adjust for my height (I’m only 5’2”) so it is a good length for a coat.  We have had some mild autumn days lately where a heavy coat is not necessary but it’s nice to have something to keep warm.

0 Silhouette 1819

I used this double sided fabric which I got on sale recently.  The pattern is unlined so I wanted to use the black “wrong side” as the folded back lapels.1 fronts

I wanted to do this pattern partly because the finished measurements are the same as another pattern for a trench coat which I am going to try next. I will still do a muslin but it gives me a size as a starting point. For those not familiar with Silhouette Patterns the size is chosen by the finished measurements.  I measured a couple of RTW coats at the bust and hip lines to arrive at my size. The only issue I had with cutting out was that I only had 1.5 metres of fabric, so I decided to piece the sleeves at the shorten/lengthen line. A new “design feature”! The pattern is only 4 pieces – front, back, and 2 piece sleeves.

Here are some process photos:

The collar is part of the front piece so once I stitched it together at centre back, and after sewing the shoulder seams, I pinned along the neck edges.

2 collar cb

At the pivot point you make a cut up to the pivot point to make it easier to turn the corner.

And the finished seam before pressing. I must admit I was slightly terrified but the neckline seam worked brilliantly.6 corner on neckline

I applied tie interfacing to the sleeve head as per the pattern instructions.  I have done this before and was thrilled with what a difference it makes and how easy it is to insert the sleeve.  Once the interfacing is basted in you can really see how it makes the sleeve head rounded and has eased up some of the fabric.7 tie interfacing basted

I was then able to insert the sleeves really easily – first go! How it should be, right? The edges of the lapels have been overlocked (I considered bias tape or fold over elastic but thought the overlocking looked fine) and so I did the same to the hem.  One large button on the front with a loop and done!  When rolling up the sleeves to get the correct length I decided I liked the look of the black cuffs, so I left them long and folded back. You can see the join where I didn’t have enough fabric, but I can live with that!

Sort of a cross between the long cardigans that you see in the shops now and a coat.  Even my 17 year old daughter likes it, so I consider that a raging success!  Off to clean up the sewing room and decide what to make next.

Until next time, Lyn

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